Bridge over the River Kwai

For 20th century history buffs and the like, the bridge over the River Kwai still stands in a corner of Kanchanaburi province, a place not far from Bangkok and a historic site to visit while on an extended stay in Thailand. Notorious because of the novel by Pierre Boulle and later the film “The Bridge over the River Kwai” starring Alec Guinness and William Holden, among others, the ‘Death Railway’ as it’s been baptized, is a reality that still haunts many of the aging multi nationals that returned to the site of the Bridge to participate in a Remembrance Day in February 1976, thirty years after the end of WWII. Walking across the bridge in a symbolic gesture of reconciliation with their captors was a difficult accomplishment even three decades after the fighting. Japanese soldiers formerly assigned to the ‘death bridge’ camp came to wipe away old hostilities, but for some POW's it brought multifaceted feelings. Construction on the wooden bridge, the ‘Railway of Death’, began in early 1942. Built and assembled by prisoners of war, it was destroyed by American bomber planes before the conflict ended in 1945. The bridge was masterminded by the Japanese as part of the 415 kilometers (roughly 260 miles) of rail road track between Bangkok and Rangoon. The notorious prisoner-of-war camp ran by the occupying Japanese Imperial Army used the forced labor of 30,000 prisoners of war and more than 100,000 slave laborers from all over South East Asia to construct a railway that would link Thailand to Burma. For the length of almost two years, they were starved as they worked continually to put together the infamous Thai - Burma railroad project. Initially, Japanese army engineers had projected the railroad would take at least three years to build, however, prison campsite officials at Kanchanaburi, forced laboring prisoners to complete it in eighteen months. For POW work forces, it was a treacherous and wearing undertaking as tracks that followed the length of cliffs had to be built for long distances, and a ledge carved out of the rock in order to shape a foundation and embankment for the construction. By the end of 1943, when the ‘Railway of Death’ was completed, the Japanese were able to move daily ammunition and supplies to its military camps in Burma without the dangers of transporting provisions by sea. The bridge was subject to frequent air raids between January and June 1945 and POW labor was used to repair it on each occasion.

Because of the terrible living and working conditions, limited water and food supply, along with brutal treatment received from their Japanese captors, more than 100,000 people died building the Thai - Burma railway line. Most of the victims were from South East Asia, captured by the Japanese and forced into hard labor. Another 15,000 casualties were Allied POWs; mostly British, Australians, Dutch and a handful of Americans. I read recently, that the ‘Railway of Death’ left in its track, as many deaths as number of wooden sleepers supporting the tracks themselves. At the end of the war the British Army dismantled two and a half miles of track at the Thai-Burma border; the remaining Thai length of the railroad, some 186 miles was handed over to the State Railway of Thailand. Since then, the railroad has been upgraded and is operational and passenger trains of The State Railways of Thailand still run over part of the Burma-Siam -- as it is called now -- 'Death Railway' from Bangkok and over the River Kwai Bridge to the line's current terminus at Nam Tok. In 1946 a ‘War Graves Commission’ survey party whose task was to locate POW cemeteries and grave sites along the Burma-Thailand railway took the opportunity to recover equipment and documents which had been secretly buried, by the Japanese in the graves of deceased POWs. Temporary wooden crosses on the graves of Allied soldiers were scattered over two make-shift cemeteries, one with 1,500 graves and one with 168 graves. Some of the allied countries involved exhumed and reburied their nationals’ bodies in the Kanchanaburi War Cemetery towards the end of 1945.

The Kanchanabury War Cemetery, in sight of the Bridge, holds thousands of POWs who died while building it. The plot is sectioned according to nationality, and provides a quiet, green grassed and treed moving tribute to those who lost their lives defending their lands. Directly across the street is a museum that details the years of suffering in the 1940’s. The museum presents a replica of the bamboo huts used to house the prisoners of war. There is an on-going black and white film with actual footage taken by the Japanese, and the whole place is imbued with the whistling sounds of the popular “Bridge over the River Kwai” tune, popularized in the film. Photographs, paintings and news clips with interviews immediately following the end of the war and loads of memorabilia line the museum walls. At one end of the bridge, on the southern bank of the River Kwai, there’s a memorial plaque commemorating the historic occurrence. The inscription on the plaque placed in 1973 reads: “Thai-Burma Railway Line”. In about 500 words, it chronicles the tragic events that unfolded between the years 1942 and 1945. Edie Wilcox 12/05

Thai Wai

I would like to explain the Thai custom called “Wai Prah” and the graceful way of saying hello and farewell in Thailand. Just as in every other culture, Thais greet one another when they meet formally or informally. Generally, in the Western world and in business spheres of most countries, people who meet acknowledge the fact with a handshake. With the exclusion of Russians, who kiss and hug even when they don’t know one another; Eskimos, who rub noses; and Middle Easterners, who touch their heart with their right hand bowing their head slightly upon meeting you. In Thailand however, greeting is a bit more complex; people here just “wai”. This traditional “wai” symbolizes respect for another human being by acknowledging the importance of a person; the greeting is both formal and polite with the precise degree of respect conveyed in the expression. A “wai” is the motion of placing both palms together in a prayer-like gesture somewhere between the chest and forehead with a slight bow of the head and highlighted by a smile. Practiced throughout Thailand, the “wai” is a graceful sign of recognition and reverence. People’s age as well as social rank make a difference on who should “wai” first; no wonder most people in my high rise building “wai” me first thing every morning. Awareness of a person’s status is important for the exact height placement of the palms. Equals would greet by placing their hands at chest level; however, while “wai-ing” Buddha images, palms would be brought all the way to the forehead while bowing the head low in reverence. “Wais” are not offered to waiters, taxi drivers, or service and repair people; when they “wai’ me though, I do acknowledge them with a nod of the head or a smile. When I am unsure, I “wai” anyway because this shows that I do care and take the time to greet somebody, especially if the other person is older than I am. The motion of the “wai” means hello and goodbye, welcome, and thank you all in one gentle gesture. Children “wai” at grownups but this isn’t reciprocal. The elderly, though, should be “wai-ed” to; as well as high ranking officials, royalty, teachers, professors, and on greeting a doctor at his/her office. Showing reverence, obedience and respect, children within the family “wai” their parents by bringing their cupped hands all the way to the top of their foreheads; parents do not return the “wai”. Learning and discipline are important and respected by all Thais; and schools and teachers have a place of honor because they make available the tools to succeed in life. Teachers and employers are also “wai-ed” to by their students and employees respectively, and Thais of all ages and ranks respectfully “wai” to all monks. As with parents, the “wai” will not be mutual. You can imagine our confusion when within 5 days of our arrival in Thailand, a welcome reception with 200 invited Thai guests produced different degrees of “wai-ing”, and bowing. When greeting so many people “wai-ing” can be exhausting! In Thailand, the “wai” is looked on with affection, especially when coming from foreigners who have taken the trouble to learn a few simple cultural differences. Like a smile, the “wai” sends the right messages and goes a long way creating a feeling of friendliness and attention. Who would have thought a simple hello or goodbye could turn into such a cultural and consequential performance! Edie Wilcox @12/05

Loy Krathong Festival

By Edie Wilcox@ Written November 2005 This month I want to share and talk about one of the loveliest and most popular festivals in Thailand; Loy Krathong. Dates for this celebration fluctuate yearly, but they always coincide with the November full moon. During the festival, people make their way to nearby klongs (canals) or rivers in the early evening hours to set their krathongs afloat. What is a krathong? This was our first Loy Krathong in Thailand so we also wanted to know all about the krathongs and the reasons for the masses of people along the river. “Loy” means ‘to float’ and “krathong” means ‘leaf cup’. Loy Krathong is a Thankgiving festival to honor the Water Goddess for providing a profusion of precious water for a bountiful harvest. Loy Krathong is a time when a pale yellow, full moon is low in the sky and all the rivers and klongs are brimming over at the end of the rainy season. Children and adults alike float their krathongs in rivers, canals, even swimming pools, believing this will bring good luck with the next harvest season. In the rural areas, children flock to the rivers near their homes, some getting there on motorbikes, water buffalo carts, or on foot; most make wishes for a better future, good crops and clean, drinking water. In the city, wishes will vary but most will be in agreement with good health and prosperity. Krathongs are small bowls made of either interwoven banana leaves or paper mache; some are made of bread dough, varnished with resin. Most children will make their own krathong projects in school much the same way we make our own Valentines in February. krathongs may also be purchased in stores; there are all kinds of different ones all over town. Once the krathong is made, flowers, a candle and three incense sticks are placed in it. All three are lighted -- as well as the candle -- before the krathong is placed on the water. People generally make a wish once the little vessel is released. Some believe that if the candle remains burning until the krathong is out of sight, their wishes will come true. By the end of the evening, there are hundreds of flickering lights bobbing up and down rivers and canals all over Thailand. Firework displays as well as puppet shows and beauty contests are also part of the celebrations. Most hotels along the Chao Phraya River in Bangkok have special (and expensive) events to celebrate the occasion with food, beautifully designed krathongs, beauty pageants and cruises down the river to witness the glowing displays. Loy Krathong is a 700 year-old event derived from the old Kingdom of Sukhothai, the first monarchy of what is now the Thai Peninsula. The first celebration hallmarked the monsoon season’s conclusion and the most important rice harvest of the year. Historians observe that the festival parallels the farming Hindu tradition of thanksgiving; a blessing of sorts, for the abundance of rainwater received. In fact, Sukhothai farmers created the practice of floating candles down rivers and canals to carry their gratitude and best wishes to the water spirits; there’s also the tale of a beautiful kingdom woman who made the first special lanterns for the festival, she made them from banana leaves and shaped them like lotus flowers. The king was impressed with what he saw, thus he announced that krathongs would be floated down all waterways every year from then on. Today, the memory of that woman who made the first krathong is remembered in the beauty contests that take place all over Thailand on Loy krathong Day. Some people place money in their krathongs, take a bow, and set them afloat along the crowded waterways, chock full of wishes and dreams. Once krathongs are out of sight families play with fireworks and eat Tom Yum, a delicious and spicy soup made with shrimp, lemon grass and rice. On the whole, the festival celebrates a joyous family day. Following are some accounts of Loy Krathong from some of the elementary school children I visited. In their own words: Manee: “On Loy Krathong I saw a full moon in the sky. I went to the river at the town hall. I went with my father, mother and sister. I took a krathong I made at school. I lighted the candle and incense sticks in my krathong. I pushed it away onto the water and prayed. After I finished floating it, I played lucky dip. I won three marbles, some sweets and toilet paper. I played with fire works and firecrackers.” Tanet: “On Loy Krathong Day I went to the river by motorcycle. I went with my sister. I floated my krathong in the river. I saw many salespeople selling krathongs, fireworks and fire crackers. I lighted the candle and incense sticks. Afterwards, I played hide and seek. I bought three tickets for 30 baht. I won toilet paper and sweets.” Orawan: “Yesterday I went to the river near my house with my family. We took our krathongs to float. After praying, I floated my krathong. Afterwards, I bought some fireworks and fire crackers. I then played with my sister and brother. At the river I met my friends. I chatted with them for a while. Then I went to a restaurant with my family. We ate some rice and chicken fried in fresh chili paste with lemon grass and basil.” Bapoo : “I went to Loy Krathong with my mother and my sister to the river. There was a full moon in the sky and the water was high. Many people were there. We floated our krathongs from a boat in the river. First we lighted the candle and incense sticks. Then we took a vow for good luck. Then we pushed our krathongs away. After we finished we ate in a restaurant. We ate rice noodle soup with vegetables and meat. It was very delicious. Then we played lucky dip at the Red Cross stall three times. We won a glass, a pen and a plate. Then we went home.”