The Moon Festival

Edie Wilcox@ September 2006 In countless ethnic societies around the globe, the pleasures derived from food -- its taste, smell and visual presentation -- parallel the satisfactions of a happy, well-lived life. Happiness is food and vice versa. Thais are no exception to this rule; they are proud and passionate about their world renowned cuisine and with good reason. Thailand’s culinary delights combine the great influences of the diverse ethnic groups that inhabit its territory. China has had the greatest impact on Thai gastronomy as culturally and historically, the Chinese make-up the most important ethnic group in the country. Chinese eateries and traditions abound in Bangkok and other large cities, and for many centuries, itinerant Chinese merchants came and went between China and the land of Siam. Some of them intermarried choosing to settle along the banks of rivers from where their business was conducted. Chinese legacies exist all over the country and the rest of Southeast Asia, for that matter, as significant trade from the 11th century onwards brought lands together in economic, cultural and political pacts. At the first October full moon this year, the Chinese in these parts will celebrate the Moon Festival, a tradition brought along by those long-ago merchants. The fest’s star is the moon cake, a Chinese custom that’s alive and kicking in the streets of Bangkok.

Chinese Mooncakes and Legends Usually baked, consisting of a thin tender skin enveloping a sweet and slightly oily filling, mooncakes used to exclusively be enjoyed throughout the Mid-Autumn Moon Festivities. Today, however, they seem to be a part of Chinese confections, year round. While mostly loved by children, mooncakes are also favored by grown-ups in the late afternoon with several cups with jasmine green tea. Moon cakes are intended to be shared with friends and family in honor of the moon festival and should never be eaten alone. Plentiful in the autumn months, the time for moon cake sampling has already begun in Bangkok. This year’s Moon Cake Festival ends October 6 which is the 15th day of the eighth moon in the Chinese calendar. In Asia as well as in other parts of the world, the moon, sun and stars have been the foundation of many a fable and myth.

Akin to many agricultural societies, the Chinese regulated their sowing and harvesting by the phases of the moon. Once the harvest season came to its end, festivities to commemorate and revere its fullness and influence over people’s lives became a symbol of harmony and luck celebrated with special foods and colorful lanterns. One myth tells the story of a time during the Yuan Dynasty when China was ruled by the Mongolian people. Leaders from the preceding Sung dynasty were unhappy at submitting to foreign rule, and tackled the coordination of a rebellion without it being discovered. The leaders of the rebellion, knowing that the Moon Festival was drawing near, ordered the making of special cakes. A message was baked into each moon cake with an outline of the ambush. On the night of the Moon Festival, the rebels successfully attacked and overthrew the government, thus instituting the Ming Dynasty, distinguished for the establishment of a strong army and navy; the printing of books; the construction of the Great Wall and exquisite porcelains. Nowadays, moon cakes honor this legendary Ming Dynasty story.

To honor the Harvest Moon, cakes shaped like moons are sold in Bangkok and other communities with large Chinese populations throughout Southeast Asia. Celebrating the Festival, families gather in buildings, hike up hills, or camp in open beaches and fields to gaze at the wondrous, rising deep yellow moon believing their wishes will be granted. They also carry candlelit lanterns adorned with traditional designs prepared for the occasion. It is a wonderful sight as the hills, and open spaces alight with thousands of lanterns in the cool darkness of evening. Today, lanterns come in colorful paper-shaped carp, butterflies, rabbits and goldfish. In Chinese mythology, carp represent health, power and wisdom; butterflies are a symbol of longevity and goldfish embody fortune and wealth.

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According to a traditional Chinese tale, a fine-looking girl named Chang E worked in the Jade Emperor's palace in the kingdom of heaven, a place where everyone lived among immortals. The kingdom was an idyllic place, and nonviolent. After accidentally breaking a porcelain jar, however, an angered Jade Emperor banished Chang E to Earth to live among mortals. Once there, she was transformed into a member of a poor farming family. Approaching her teenage years, her beauty flourishing, she abandoned her childish ways, embracing womanhood. Admiring her beauty from afar, a hunter discovered Chang E viewing herself in the reflection of a pond. The two soon became lovers. One day, ten suns were rising in the sky instead of one, casting scorching heat across the land. The hunter stepped forward and shot an arrow into the sky, through the nine extra suns sinking them into the oceans. Instantly becoming a hero and the source of great admiration, he soon married Chang E. The two lived happily, but eventually the hunter became a tyrant, ruling with a cruel and oppressive hand. He sought great power and ordered that an elixir of immortality be created in order to extend his life. Chang E came upon it and inadvertently consumed the elixir, infuriating her husband. Attempting to flee him, she jumped from the window of her palace bedroom, yet rather than falling, she somehow floated through the sky towards the glowing moon. Today the moon is revered by the Chinese and viewed at its fullest during the Autumn festival in order to make wishes and to catch a glimpse of the dazzling maiden residing within.

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Sixty Years on the Throne

For much of their history, which goes back longer than 700 years, Siamese kings maintained a healthy distance from the demands of foreign conquerors. Thailand retained its autonomy throughout history claiming the distinction of being the only un-colonized country in Southeast Asia. Following a peaceful coup in 1932, the Kingdom became a constitutional monarchy and some time later it changed its name from Siam, "the land of the White Elephant" to Thailand, “the land of the Free”.

For several disturbing decades, Thailand was hindered by turbulent clashes, offenses and military dictatorships. In the mid 1990’s, however, Thailand managed to be re-born from its ashes emerging into the reasonably stable and economically thriving nation it is today. His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej -- Rama IX -- along with his consort, Queen Sirikit, have shared Thailand’s royal throne for the past sixty years. They stand as the longest reigning sovereign monarchs in the world conveying unwavering harmony while infusing the kingdom with compelling vitality pertinent to current times. This past June, massive celebrations to commemorate the 60 years of the King’s ascension to the throne, clearly illustrated the extraordinary outburst of public pride, personal emotion and affection for the 79 year-old, much-revered monarch. Much loved by his people, the king has shown personal affinity for rural and urban issues, maintaining that agriculture will always be the basis of this land.

World dignitaries and royalty from twenty-nine countries gathered in Bangkok for the Monarch’s Diamond Jubilee and were treated to view the Royal Barge Procession along the city’s major waterway, the Chao Phraya River. The unique Thai Royal barges cruising along the “River of Kings”, is an ancient tradition revived by King Bhumibol in the late 1950’s. This type of barge procession is reserved for very special occasions and the one in June 2006 was the grandest and most regal of all; 2,000 Royal Navy rowers and 52 royal barges were included in the special ceremony. King Bhumibol Adulyadej succeeded the throne of Thailand in June 1946, at the age of 19, being the ninth ruler of the Chakri Dynasty established in 1782. Called the “Builder of the Nation”, King Bhumibol -- who has shown deep concern for his country’s inequalities -- has worked tirelessly to guide Thailand into the 21st century with an approach that is eco-sensitive and fair to the rural population. Multi tasking on his agricultural projects, His Majesty’s astute vision has been recognized internationally and has carried Thailand into an important manufacturing mode.

King Bhumibol has sponsored infinite projects and overseen experiments in re-forestation, irrigation, land development and farm technology; He calls these projects “Living Museums”. Deforested areas a decade ago have now given way to arable farmland; restoration of the ecological balance is the country’s most urgent priority in rural development. The King of Thailand is an avid reader and is also known as “The Literary King” because his works provide observant principles and philosophies akin to his “Living Museums” reflecting his ideas for technical innovation and rural development. Providing inspiration to millions, the published royal literary works often discuss aspects of gratefulness, kindness and perseverance as essential values for living. Most of the royal stories offer motivation to a society burdened with increasingly expanding disparities in economic and social status. King Bhumibol is viewed as the “Father of the Country” and accordingly, Father’s Day in Thailand is celebrated on the monarch’s birthday, December 5, every year.

Offering assistance through the network of various charitable foundations under His sponsorship, His Majesty the King has provided moral support and encouragement to people in rural expansion projects designed to improve their livelihoods. Wholly devoted to a democratic kingdom, Bhumibol Adulyadej is a loyal defender of its principles in the government of Thailand. His tenacity and devotion for his subjects’ welfare have greatly added to the political stability and economic growth that Thailand has enjoyed over the past six decades. The King’s observations clearly reveal him as a caring, rounded humanitarian who fervently voices that … “I cannot impose my ideas on the people, I can only suggest”. “Persuade, never impose. And while pursuing material security people need to strive for inner peace of mind through spiritual purification; development must respect the diversity of regional geography and different ways of life”. The people of Thailand regard their beloved King Bhumibol as the soul of the Thai Kingdom, a man who has truly earned their reverence. Long Live the King! @Edie Wilcox, 07/06

Latest: September 25 2006

Unfortunately, one week ago, on September 19, the Royal Thai Army staged a coup against the government of Prime Minister Thaksin Shinawatra. The coup, which was Thailand’s first in fifteen years, followed a year-long political crisis involving Mr. Thaksin and political opponents and occurred less than a month before elections were scheduled to be held, on October 15. These elections had however already been postponed, and were likely to be held late in November. The military cancelled the upcoming elections, suspended the constitution, dissolved Parliament, banned protests and all political activities, suppressed and censored the media, declared martial law, and arrested Cabinet members. The coup was bloodless, with there were no casualties. It has been reported that King Bhumibol has endorsed the coup because the political state of affairs was about to spark off into aggression. With the military government in place and no demonstrations permitted, the feeling is that much violence has been averted. Life goes on as usual here and except for a few military tanks and some soldiers on the highways, nothing seems out of the ordinary.

The Wine Country of Siam

A recently arrived American friend of mine, an obstinate and devoted wine connoisseur, tasted the superb Syrah wine I served her and commented on the full bodied fragrance and physical warmth with hints of woodland spices, “This must be a French Syrah, right?” “WRONG!” When I showed her the bottle, she was astounded, Thai wine?, she asked, staring at the pretty-labeled bottle in utter disbelief. Wine has become the latest rage in Thailand; Thai vintners are eager to benefit from the budding market for locally produced wines although they have encountered obstacles along the road because in terms of sales Thai wines haven’t been able to match imported ones. Thai consumers have a penchant for imported items as evidence of their social status in a country that’s progressively more upwardly mobile and disposable income is on the rise. Because of all these reasons our curiosity was peaked so we recently spent a weekend enjoying the wine country on the foothills that cut across the valley along the Khao Yai National Forest, not far from Bangkok. Our first stop was the GranMonte Estate, a quaint ‘boutique’ winery, the smallest and youngest of the vineyards that flank the Khao Yai expanse. Family owned and founded in 1999, bounded by vineyards perfectly trimmed in staked rows, GranMonte welcomed us to an ideal setting complete with gently sloping evergreen ranges, tidy gardens and a pond; a perfect background for this small winery - and for us, a superb break from the hustle and bustle of Bangkok. Situated at the 14th parallel, the vineyards at khao Yai are distanced from the traditional 30th to 50th parallels deemed ideal for viniculture in the southern and northern hemispheres where wine production has prospered for centuries. However, the 1200 feet above sea level along with loamy, clay soils and slightly cooler temperatures seemed to make the deciding difference in providing good harvests. Thailand is becoming a pioneer for the ‘New Latitude Wines’ because they originate from superior vines nurtured within the margins of nearly perfect environmental conditions in a slender strip of land at a latitude of only 14 degrees north of the equator. Owners and vintners Mr. and Mrs. Lohitnavy offer short tours of their –off the premises- wine-making facility and answer questions from inquisitive visitors. The 40-acre family estate includes the vineyards, the Montino gourmet shop and cellar door for wine-tasting, and VinCotto restaurant – where Mrs. Lohitnavy indulges her love of cooking. Their fertile acreage incorporates Tempranillo, Syrah, Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon wine grapes while table grapes such as Thomson seedless, Hamburg and Muscat among others, are also grown in the grounds. During the tour, the wine-making process from harvest to bottle was explained. Hundreds of oak barrels stack a room where some wines are aged before bottling; oak casks add additional aromas to the brew and the best ones are aged between one and three years after harvesting. GranMonte’s original grapevines Syrah and Chenin Blanc came to Khao Yai directly from France. Mr. Lohitnavy says, “There’s much sunshine in Khao Yai, but cool nights and breezes are good for Syrah and Chenin Blanc grapes; akin to the south of France, they thrive in these parts”. GranMonte’s premiere vintage in 2001 yielded 20,000 bottles of red and 6,000 of white wines; a year later, production improved by 25%, and moving ahead ever since. Sampling wines at their cellar also provided spectacular mountain vistas in a very relaxed atmosphere. Surprisingly light and crisp their recent vintage Chenin Blanc was favored by most people in our group. Second best was the ruby red Syrah or Shiraz blend, a full bodied but mellow elixir that would pair excellently with red meats, or pasta. For wine and fine food enthusiasts, VinCotto Restaurant included dishes drawn from fusions of diverse gastronomic traditions prepared admirably, and with practical elegance. Chugging along on first gear, our van climbed its way once again through abrupt twisting lanes bordering the dense tropical forest along the foothills of the national park. Located in the heartland of the highly-acclaimed "wine country", PB Valley Winery & Vineyard is one of Thailand’s largest and the very first to set up shop in the Khao Yai region. Similarly to GranMonte, the valley here rises 1000 to 1200 feet above sea level and has proved to be an excellent valley-floor for vineyards. The PB Valley Winery sits in the heart of a 320-hectare prolific estate, only 80 of them devoted to viniculture. In operation for sixteen years, the PB Valley estate has emerged as the pioneer of Thailand’s finest wines. Considered one of the leading vineyards – nationally, and in the Southeast Asian region -- the facility commands an unparalleled and comprehensive high-tech viniculture operation. …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………. A tractor pulling a roofless bus concoction shuttled us from the parking lot near the winery’s Great Hornbill Grill on our guided tour of the vineyards and winery. Our guide, German born Heribert Gaksch, General Manager of the vineyards Hospitality Division, explained about grape varieties for viniculture and the kinds of table grapes also grown in their acreage.Winemakers strongly believe that their wines are as good as the grapevines growing in their grounds, making the daily care of the vineyards and management of the harvest critical to the ultimate quality of a wine. Premium wines made from grapes grown in this exotic tropical latitude of 14.3 degrees north need plenty of tender loving care. PB Valley is planted with Shiraz and Chenin Blanc grapes from French rootstock while the Tempranillo grapes are from Spanish extraction. Italy and Germany have also provided parent grapevines. Once in the cool quarters of the production facility, we attended a wine-making presentation and explored the confines of stainless steel and oak vats while enjoying a wine-tasting break. An expert and extensive viniculture enterprise, the PB Valley winery boasts professional expertise and equipment to lead the wine-making production in Thailand and Southeast Asia. The winery’s first highlight was ushered in with their 1998 harvest bringing forth a vintage which proved that quality wine could be successfully produced locally. Today PB Valley has surpassed its own expectations. With Chenin Blanc and Shiraz as their strong, on-going classics, they have also released a red wine based on Spanish Tempranillo grapes reaped from the long, dry and cool period prior to the 2004 harvest which was perfect for grape maturity, providing an excellent blend of sugar and acid. The wine itself, a profound, reddish purple color had some evidence of vanilla and cedar in its aroma. It would make a perfect companion for red meats, lamb or pork. The winery’s restaurant serves traditional Thai, Continental and German fare. They also have a gourmet shop and top-notch resort facility drawing in local and international guests. The efforts of PB Valley are evident in the recent run of accolades from the media but are even more apparent in the premium wines they continue to make. For us, this was a well-spent weekend as once again we discovered one of our ‘host country’s’ amazing surprises. By Edie Wilcox@ August 2006

The Heart of Bangkok: Thanon Sukhumvit

Some thirty years back, Thanon Sukhumvit, aka Sukhumvit Road, had a barren and coarse façade lacking the new trendy buildings and configuration of elevated tracks and colonnaded support structures that make up today’s sky train. Street potholes were deep and maybe there weren’t so many vendors invading every inch of existing pavement. Notably less urbanized than today, the tallest buildings on the road were the peaks of Buddhist temples. In early pictures I’ve seen, the area resembled a labyrinth of sweat shops and narrow apartment houses closed in by bamboo doors and shutters. Thanon Sukhumvit, one of the chief arteries of central Bangkok -- accommodating a lucrative ‘red light district’ -- conjures up visions of late-night hawkers, prostitutes, burning incense and blatant vulgarity. I know, I know, it’s a different culture and I shouldn’t judge it by my own moral and cultural standards. Nevertheless, it’s hard not to. Sorry. Whenever I am out and about in the Sukhumvit night, alongside the smells of fried garlic, onions and pork that fill the night air, I can’t help but notice the gory and gaudy masquerade of humanity swaggering by: the tourists -- observing in overwhelming stupefaction; -- the couples -- mixed and same sex; older man/ teen woman duos --; and the aberrations, the sex unidentified individuals, katoeys > or ladyboys, female impersonators. Bangkok’s musky, moist air hangs in thick halos around the bare bulbs above vendors’ carts illuminating the white, heavily made-up faces of the men and women in the street as rivulets of sweat strategically meander down their dark, unmade-up necks. Yes, both sexes in this town use powders and cosmetics freely. Men are just as careful of their skin, body and hair as women are; a new concept in my own cultural background. Clubs where the young and not so young partake of beneficial massage and party all night stay open till dawn; everything here is for sale while sophisticated, mini-skirted, high booted young things entice costumers by offering arrangements to suit every budget. The explosion of bars, massage parlors, restaurants and hotels in the area proliferated during the Vietnam War when catering to the needs of American GIs on R&R turned out to be Thailand’s ‘charitable act’ in the war effort. Daylight modifies and softens the appearance of Sukhumvit Road as shop-keepers and tailor shops open their doors to a more mundane clientele. Sukhumvit Road during the day witnesses fruit and vegetable soi markets; monks on their alms rounds; a selection of beggars; occasional elephants on their way to a work-site nearby, and waves of loud, polluted traffic moving in and out of people’s consciousness. Walking from soi 4 towards Phrom Phong and beyond, one can still encounter -- in the middle of an internal soi -- the old colonial-type bungalows surrounded by palms and banana trees such as those I remember from my early days in Singapore, Malaysia and Indonesia. In those calmer areas one can still find the older restaurants; there are some Indian and regional Middle Eastern ones that have survived the onslaught of progress and endured the emergence of fancy, new bistros. From soi Nana towards soi LangSuan, crossing the railroad tracks and walking under the Chalerm Mahanakhon Expressway, an assortment of Arabic cafés and fast food fare can be found. Numerous massage parlors and projects under different stages of construction also line the narrow sois in the area. We are lucky to have arrived at a time when the Nana Center has opened for business; it contains beauty salons, a food court, a liquor store, several diverse shops and a Tops supermarket where I do some of my ‘European’ shopping. In addition, across Sukhumvit, in the Ploenchit Building, there’s a Villa supermarket, which, even though expensive, is good for meats and cheeses. Since our arrival in Bangkok, I have seen major changes come to soi 11; up-scale looking bars, and new upgraded side-walks -- even if those are always taken-up by ambulant carts selling foods of all kinds from 10 AM till late at night -- a major annoyance, I think, since pedestrians have to walk in the street through the tunnels made by the carts, the parked cars, the speeding cars and the tuk-tuk drivers that sit in their stationary vehicles picking their toes as they wait around for customers. In pictures and from above, Thanon Sukhumvit looks dazzling in all its contemporary glass and steel structures. The BTS sky-train’s pillars and upper support give it an air of singular advancement few roads enjoy; however, down at street and traffic level, the picture changes drastically. Is the present infrastructure sound enough to support all the new development? I worry about that, and hope all ambitious planning for the city is carried-out by scrupulous, conscientious and dependable law makers and engineers. Underneath the Bangkok streets run the elderly network of sewers carved out of the old canals that used to criss-cross the city; cesspool smells rise from them and easily merge with the frying noodles and shrimp that vendors cook - street side - from their carts, while stray dogs drool and undisturbed diners on plastic chairs, take pleasure in a repast with friends. Thanon Sukhumvit is a historic thoroughfare and an important inter province highway in Thailand; it stretches from east to west across the city changing its name every few miles all the way to the Cambodian border. Lined with all the new amenities, and the odd reminders of another era, Thanon Sukhumvit reflects the pace that’s altering the city’s dynamics. By Edie Wilcox, September 2006

After the Tsunami

A few decades before the tsunami hit, Phuket Island was blanketed in endless expanses of steamy perennial forests bounded on all coasts by white sanded beaches and blue-green waters rich with marine life. Great numbers of small gibbon monkeys swung from treetop branches while varieties of colorful birds flew above the uninterrupted canopy in this lush tropical jungle. Tigers, leopards, Asiatic black bears, species of deer and of course the mighty elephant lived in harmonious pecking order; an abundance of wild tropical fruit trees, providing a majestic resource of sustenance. Through the years, Phuket left behind most of its indigenous beauty as international tourism, logging, rubber tree tapping and tin mining began absorbing the island’s diversified ecosystems. The great jungle expanses of the past have been reduced to a rather smallish national park and animal reserve containing the only remaining virgin rainforest on the island. I recently had the chance to visit Phuket Island and a few of the 20 or so villages hardest hit by the enormous tsunami wave unleashed by two seaquakes approximately 30 kilometers beneath the ocean floor off the west coast of Sumatra. Today, despite abysmal devastation and inestimable loss of life, plenty has been accomplished to ease the suffering that’s still taking place in many areas of the region. After the tragic events of December 26, 2004, thousands of lives were destroyed in Thailand and Southeast Asia as a shocked world generously poured selfless assistance, emergency relief and reconstruction efforts; thousands were displaced or died in the aftermath of such a destructive natural phenomenon. Many of the palm studded fishing villages along the beachfront were flattened; their residents either drowning or lost in the sea. Those who were able to flee the original wave returned a few days later in search of loved ones and possessions to be met by the shocking news that the prime land where their villages had once stood had been declared ‘official property’ at the insistence of government representatives who ordered survivors to relocate away from seaside areas. In fact, the land was pronounced ‘unsafe and off bounds’ to villagers while enclosing the hidden agenda of promoting it - later on - to land development companies, a detail kept secret from residents and volunteer workers. However, in the midst of a major disaster, international non governmental organizations (NGOs) had no other choice than to overlook bureaucratic hurdles, corruption and illegal conditions in order to bring about much needed aid. Thriving international tourism has been – since the mid 1980’s -- an extremely profitable business in Phuket and other Thai islands. After the ravages of the tsunami, legislators and developers seized the opportunity to resolve the long debated -- and pre-tsunami -- issue of villager relocation to lesser valued land. Those volunteer workers I informally spoke to said that with ruling still pending in the higher courts, they have continued to provide local aid and remain confident the relevant authorities will revisit their plans. I sensed extreme mutual admiration between the locals and international workers; the former applaud non governmental organizations’ persistence on their continuing process of re-building lives and the shattered infrastructures left behind by water and debris; the latter find the perseverance of local people to regain control of their lives “humbling”. NGOs are especially concerned with local authority response efforts for possible future catastrophes; however, the new National Disaster Warning Centre in the province of Nonthaburi conducted a drill in mid December ‘05 which -- after a well announced and publicized instructional campaign -- turned to be a complete success despite copious rain. A network of 62 sounding warning towers and hundreds of posted Tsunami Evacuation Route signs is almost completed -- reassuring people of their security in unfamiliar areas. Contrary to places such as Banda Aceh in Indonesia, and entire coastal towns in Sri Lanka, Phuket is again open for trade. Business production has picked up as curious tourists and some locals roam again about the beach areas. Most adjacent coastal roads are navigable once more and hotel, shop and restaurant owners are readily resuming life as they knew it before the tsunami. Different stages of construction can be seen everywhere on the island. New and sturdy family homes have sprung up in the flattened areas. Debris has been cleaned up and other than some disabled trees and broken tree limbs; one would never guess this was a devastation zone only 18 months ago. Relief efforts have been strongest near the area of Pathong Beach as this was the site where many tourists and locals drowned in the floods following the enormous wave. A children’s village compound still under construction will provide clean living quarters for over 120 orphans. Even though the rubber tree plantations down the northwestern coastal roads seemed to withstand the brunt of the tsunami, the low mangrove forests which protect fauna and housing communities along the coastline was damaged by water and debris and will take time to grow back. International business has picked up some; nonetheless, many Thais still seem reluctant to return to this beautiful paradise with such recent tragic past. Forever superstitious, they believe the whole area is inhabited by the spirits of the departed. An eerie feeling descends on me as I wade in the sapphire waters in this part of the Indian Ocean called the Andaman Sea; it’s unimaginable that these same graceful, white sanded shores of bright sunshine and leaning coconut palms provided the stage from which so many people were swept away. I heard a volunteer woman say that survivors will -- for all time -- keep inside their mind’s eye, the reflection of churning black waters and the absolute roar of the sea, remembering what it feels like to be drowning among dead bodies and hazardous debris. Reverent of the strong undertow, I ambled along the shore, my eyes intent on the horizon. By Edie Wilcox@ May 2006

The Songkran Festival or Thai New Year

Songkran, the traditional festival celebrating the Thai New Year falls on April 13th and lasts for three days. This area event has profound importance as it observes the special time in which Thais show their reverence and respect to the Lord Buddha and their elders. A time for regeneration and personal purification, Songkran also allows for inner reflection, compassion, charity and harmony; it is a time of thanksgiving as friendships and family ties are renewed. Bathing Buddha statues with sacred water, and pouring it over an elder’s hands is a ritual conveying gratitude for all the blessings given and received in the past year along with other outward demonstrations of respect. Reflecting on the thanksgiving spirit, monks receive alms; the disadvantaged collect donations, and many people become involved in community clean-up campaigns of temples, parks and other public areas. As evidenced in local media advertising, major department store sales for linens, tableware, furniture and cleaning items at reduced prices, bank on the ‘spring cleaning’ traditions during Songkran in the awareness of the festival’s meaning of renewal and purification. Songkran, a word from the Sanskrit meaning ‘moving into’, observes the beginning of a new solar year; marking the conclusion of a twelve-month cycle. The event symbolizes purification and the removal of evil and adversity with a fresh, untainted launch into the New Year. Water, the icon of Songkran, accordingly represents purity, transparency and cleanliness. Elders are ‘blessed’ with sprinkled water -- in their homes and in the wats (temples) -- a tradition started as a way to make merit as well as to acknowledge and honor ancestors by means of pouring water into their cupped hands. In the long traditional past, actual bathing took place as the younger generation helped their elders take a bath, exchanging old garments for new-fangled ones as a sign of deference at the time of the New Year. Nowadays, though, the festival has fallen into one big water-throwing parade and anyone venturing out onto the streets is likely to get a crystal-clear purifying drench - all in good, ‘clean’ fun. Thais celebrate without restraint, much enthusiasm and dancing as the water-throwing traditions shift from polite water-pistol sprinkles to a dowsing from a garden hose in residential areas, or accurate water mortars dispatched cheerfully and with a wave from high rise buildings. This is the crest of the hot season here in Thailand and water is welcome to a certain extent. We saw people roaming and dancing in the streets with buckets of water as they drenched each other and anyone passing by on foot or in cars. Water throwing is a happy event during the holiday and it’s expected. According to the local English newspaper, passengers in public buses are the most sought after targets; buses being ambushed at strategic spots such as traffic lights. I also read that today’s accent on fun water-throwing rather than on Songkran’s spiritual aspects have incited critisism from the more conservative. Apparently, recent calls to contain the water festivities have fallen on deaf ears - even though accidents attributed to extreme behavior - are causing alarm and concern. On a more contemporary note, Songkran reminds Thais to be kind and charitable by encouraging goodwill and the gentle pouring of water on one another. Songkran is set in motion with cleanliness, respect and reverence shown from the lowest to the highest person in rank, so acknowledged in order of importance for their devoutness, wisdom, philanthropy, worldly experience and compassion; for example, the Buddha, royalty, grandparents, parents and other elders, teachers, employers, etc. Reverent as the rituals are though, after respects are paid, the Songkran procession picks up into a fest of vibrant color, song, and dance, complete with traditional food, drink and, the oasis of the water throwing games to beat the heat. Additionally, the ancient capital city of Ayhuttaya provides the stage from which participants enjoy the best water fest of them all as they sit astride elephants blasting water from their trunks aimed at others caught in similar lofty circumstances. What we loved most about this year’s Songkran (our first), was the fact that the masses working in the capital returned home to their provinces and rural areas to celebrate the festival, thus leaving Bangkok momentarily deserted allowing for stress-free cruising through the city in the dry sanctuary of our Jeep. Maybe next year we’ll stride the sidewalks (!) By Edie Wilcox@ Written April 2006

Thailand's Monks and Buddhism

Thais are intensely religious. For the Buddhist majority, faith defines devout fervour as much as cultural behaviour. Buddhism is the motivator and essence behind Thailand’s traditions and way of life. The Theravada Buddhist believe that existence equates suffering, suffering is the cause of desire, consequently by eliminating desire through reflection, an ideal condition of non suffering -- called nibbana (nirvana) -- can be achieved. Thailand includes around 200,000 Buddhist monks, their daily life an assortment of material sacrifices that regular individuals may regard as purgatory on earth. Young novice boys are often sent to monasteries by their parents as otherwise they wouldn’t be able to afford an education; however, for the most part, boys decide on monastic life on their own; children as young as10 can attend a monastery and begin training to become monks. The sound of temple bells awakens residents at 4:30 in the morning on a regular day. Getting on the saffron robes is no easy task as it may be worn four different ways using different folds and twists with the cloth. At 5:00 and at 6:00 AM occupants draw together for morning chanting followed by group-meditation; Buddhist monks worship twice daily. At sunrise, they venture on their alms-rounds collection, following specific itineraries or routes, generally walking in pairs, going barefooted in rural areas, but in Bangkok sandals are needed as streets are hazardous. In suburban neighborhoods, people gather by the roadside laden with food bags and boxes as they pause for the clerics to pass by. As the monks approach people automatically lower their heads in a sign of respect as they hand their gifts. In busy city areas, especially before holidays, monks are seen loaded with bags as they walk in nearby street bazaars. All food is finally delivered to the monastery's kitchen, where it will be prepared and used for daily sustenance. Monks never beg or ask for food directly on their alms-round; they accept whatever is given in silence. The alms-round is primarily a way to give the general population an opportunity to make merit as well as receiving some assistance for the monasteries. The monks’ first meal is served early and soon after returning from their alms round; sitting on the floor, older monks eat companionably in smallish groups while newer monks and novices eat spread-out in a long line along the walls; group prayer reiterates that nourishment is a necessity to keep-up bodily function, and food consumption is not for social enjoyment. Meals are taken in absolute silence; good manners and propriety are a top priority. Monks lead a caring, considerate, and selfless existence throughout their lives. They share great respect for each other and for all living things. Monks’ daily chores include hand washing their robes and cleaning common monastery areas and living quarters before joining classes in the temple’s school buildings to pursue studies of the old Pali language, and Dhamma which is the name for Buddha's teachings. Close to the noon hour, a thunderous temple drum announces the second and last meal of the day. From now until tomorrow's sunrise no food will be consumed. Occasionally, people drop by with food items and other worldly necessities such as toothpaste, soap, etc. In the cool months, blankets and sweaters are most welcome. If a special item is needed, permission to go shopping can be requested. Bus fare is free to monks as is most medical care and medication. In most cases people providing the services (shop keepers, doctors, etc.) will take care of monks’ bills which increases their progression on the path to merit making. Making merit, or tham boon, is essential in Thai Buddhist society and it provides a humanly conscious way to filter the mind of all imperfections: self-indulgence, greed, materialism, selfishness. As the mind gets liberated, good deeds become increasingly effortless, developing into worthy building blocks on the path toward spiritual enlightenment and soul immortality. This societal merit-making practice grants the general population a way to make the sustenance and survival of monks possible. Monks however, don’t just subsist with donations; they are important counselors and Dhamma teachers serving people with their everyday life problems. Besides providing guidance, monk services are habitually required to give blessings and bring chanting to weddings and funerals; new homes and cars also need to be blessed to bring good luck and auspiciousness to their owners. In Thailand, there seems to be an intermingling of philosophies, superstitions, religion and animism (a conviction that all things, such as forests, hills, buildings, rocks and bodies of water, have living souls) inspiring spiritual fervour. As a ‘making merit’ society, opportunities abound not only in the monastic world, but also in the orphanages for the multitude of young and old who are chronically ill or handicapped in different ways. Monks make their own merit by assisting people or fellow monks in need; yet, most of their merit-making is achieved through daily meditation and the teaching of Dhamma. Afternoon hours are spent in routine temple tasks and responsibilities; also studying; sitting, walking or standing meditation. By sundown monks assemble in their community room for twilight chanting, group meditation and some hot tea. Resident monks sleep on the floor, no high or soft bedding is used. The floor is used for meditation, studying, eating as well as for praying. Smaller cabins or kuti for two people have two rooms with a shared bathroom; but, new monks and novices stay in dormitories. Many monasteries hold periodic meditation retreats when the attending public joins monks out of doors for day and evening meditation under a canopy for protection from the elements. When monks are ordained the community offers sponsorship by contributing new robes, meal bowls and food for ordinance day; such an event provides yet another opportunity to make merit. Monks have their heads shaved once a month on the eve of the full moon and right before ordination. Buddhism in Thailand shows up more as a personal philosophy -- jumbled with superstition and animism -- than the indoctrination of specific ideas. People make merit performing good deeds on an individual basis while following their own pace and specific path towards enlightenment. Buddhism teaches and practices tolerance; it proposes that everything is questionable until a satisfying answer is found, encouraging humanity to think and make its own judgments. Buddhism has no need to gain converts; it is a religion purely pursued by an inquisitive candidate looking for enlightenment and answers to life’s challenges. By Edie Wilcox @ February 2006 Read about Spirits and their connection to Buddhism in the next Post-Cards from Siam

The Turning Point

Embarking on the Journey

Menopause is one of the most significant occurrences in a woman’s life. It heralds an extremely individual and unique transition. Women are different, and they will experience changes in different ways. The only similarity for all of us is that we are approaching a crossroads, a major turning point, and a defining moment in our lives.

The menopausal years of a woman's life can be frustrating as dramatic swings alter her physical being, and challenge the way she has been viewed previously, both by herself, and by those around her. This process, which culminates in menopause, occurs over time. “Like all states of being, a woman comes upon menopause gradually, as she did to other stages of her life. Today we sometimes have a tendency to rush through our lives noting punctuated events only”, explains Christiane Northrup, author of “The Wisdom of Menopause”

A Storm from Within

As women approach menopause, or ‘the big M’ as some call it, there is a sense of accomplishment as well as a feeling of dread. Menopause is not just a physical event; it also brings deep psychological transformation. Heat flushes feel bizarre because they come unannounced, they resemble lightening in a storm, and feel like an internal boom of energy right at the core of one’s being. As heat flows emotions are liberated, the spirit is engaged; hot flushes are radiating from within and allowing women to express who they really are. Warmth rushes in waves, steaming the face, shoulders, and chest for a few seconds at a time, subsiding and retreating again without warning. At times you’ll feel pressed to write your feelings on a journal, or doing nothing at all, let the memories sweep through you. There’s a resurrection of sorts emerging from within pleading to be acknowledged. Learn to rejoice in those heat interventions and learn to decipher their meaning.

Joining the Crowd

For some women menopause means independence. Others feel emotionally and spiritually resurrected, and wise. Unconcerned about pregnancy and the absence of monthly periods, many experience a sense of freedom and well-being. Nonetheless, menopause is also seen with anxiety and trepidation by some. Many women fear leaving their fertility behind, and growing older. The child-bearing years are over; the very reason for womanhood about to be extinguished. Great hormonal imbalance at this time accounts for the roller coaster ride of brittle emotions.There’s much to learn about menopause. Women all over the world are getting together and talking about it. They are setting-up chat rooms on the internet, and forming ‘menopause tea groups’. This is not a hushed subject anymore. It is a reality, not a myth. Educated women want to know what is going on in their bodies and their minds at this special time in their lives.

What is Menopause?

Meno (menstruation) pause (stop); technically it is the last menstrual period of a woman’s life. In a few words this means that the ovaries gradually cease to release eggs and women stop menstruating. It rarely happens that easily though. Menopause, again, is a gradual progression that begins taking form as early as the mid thirties or early forties for some women; it is a slow, steady climb up the stairs of maturity.

The Menopausal Years

In her book, The Menopausal Years, the Wise Woman’s Way, author Susun (yes, Susun) Weed discusses the transformation from young womanhood to wise, older female. She talks about the menstrual cycle’s final years as well as the ancient and unique events of menstruation and ensuing menopause.This transformation is divided into three stages: before, during, and after menopause; each stage presenting different challenges and needs.

First Signs of Menopause

This is a time marked by gradual changes affecting a woman’s feelings, bodily functions, and hormonal composition. This phase is called the climacteric or the transition from the –reproductive to the non-reproductive- years of her life. During these pre-menopausal years, menstrual periods will become clearly different in nature, perhaps heavier or slighter, longer in duration, or further apart. At this time the pre-menopausal woman may start experiencing occasional episodes of hot flushes (flashes) and sweating at night. Women generally attribute this to anything but menopause. I think we are usually NOT ready to accept that this is the beginning of the change, of our arrival at a certain maturity in our lives.

Before menopause the ovaries start slowing down their production of the female hormone estrogen. As levels of estrogen vary, body systems such as the adrenal, thyroid, and pituitary glands amongst others; also fluctuate causing emotional, physical and psychological imbalances.

Feed your Body and your Soul

Eating soy and calcium rich foods is one of the most important things the pre-menopausal woman can do. Calcium protects bones from loosing their density, from emotional mood swings and from heart disease. Soya beans are mostly protein; they have no fats, and are high in fiber. Soy products aid your heart, your bones and your arteries. Research shows that soy products may protect from diseases such as breast, and uterine cancers.Calcium rich foods include: low-fat dairy products, long, green leafy vegetables such as kale, collard greens, Chinese cabbage and broccoli.Soy milk comes in many flavors and tofu can be added to salads and prepared foods.

The Progression Towards Menopause

This period includes on average, the year or two before reaching the complete cessation of menstrual periods as well as the year or two after it. The average age during this transition is 51 years. Hot flushes, and night sweats may be frequent; stop altogether and then come back; palpitations, emotional sensitivity, and sleeplessness are common. Other important signs are mood changes, headaches, frequent urination, achy joints and changes in sexual desire. Most of these conditions are also frequently linked with PMS (pre menstrual syndrome).The occasional woman exists who will have one last menstrual period with no trouble before, or after. Some people are lucky; but not most of us, unfortunately. Take time for solitude and quiet inner reflection. As women’s reproductive years come to an end, many close the chapter on their regular care-taking duties. Hot flushes, exhaustion, and moodiness place us in a world of our own. It’s appropriate to contemplate and re-think your motives. There are special herbal teas to help those with unrelenting menopausal symptoms. Take time to write in a journal; keep it nearby to be able to record your ideas. Your impressions and feelings tend to be more acute during this time. Now is your chance to begin anew, do some things you wanted to but could not do, perhaps because of social opposition, lack of money or time. During this stage, and without the stress of managing children’s schedules, you’ll have time to listen and care for your own body and self. Reward yourself! This is your moment in time; you have come out of the final shell.

After it's gone

Once your menstrual periods fail to show-up for twelve full moons, it is safe tobelieve that you are a post-menopausal woman. These are the ‘after’ years. The same symptoms as before and during may still be present, weakening the quality and quantity of the post menopausal years. Build a healthy, strong heart and blood system.Eat a healthy diet: full of vegetables, fruits, and grains instead of meats and animal products. Your bones and your heart will benefit.

MOVE! Walk, stretch, stay active. Be alive! Walking and weight bearing exercise will keep you fit while protecting bones and heart. Anthropologist Margaret Mead once said: "There is no more creative force in the world than the menopausal woman with zest”. ‘Middle Age’ brings wisdom, self-confidence, andunderstanding.

Transformation

Menopause is not a motionless event, it would be wrong to think of it in this manner. It’s not one specific thing or another. It’s a combination of erratic signs in the ample spectrum of a woman’s structural make-up indicating a transformation is about to happen. Fruits and vegetables don’t just ripen and fall off, do they? Babies are not created in a day. As nature moves forward, women begin to experience diminutive changes at first, gigantic ones later on announcing the final stage called menopause.

The Ubiquitous Tuk-Tuk

The three-wheeled, vehicles with coughing motors called tuk-tuks are useful and sometimes convenient for short distances although much of the time they are idling polluting machines. The most common around Bangkok are the smaller ones with a small compartment for the driver and a bench in back for two to three passengers, depending on their size. Thailand’s first tuk-tuks came on the scene in the late 1950’s. Imported from Japan, the vehicles replaced the samlors (three-wheeled bicycles with a pedaling driver’s seat and a covered passenger seat behind) of bygone days. Performing an analogous job to the taxicab, the ubiquitous tuk-tuks (aptly named because of the clattering, monotonous sound of their engines) are virtually power-driven rickshaws of olden Chinese notoriety. Noise and environmental polluters, the tuk-tuks of Thailand are in effect, three-wheeled motorcycles, sometimes sporting handlebars instead of steering wheels. Their two-stroke engines much like chain saws, leaf blowers, dirt bikes, mopeds or jet skis run on gas just like cars. The advantages of a two-stroke engine are significant because they don’t have valves, which simplify their construction and lower their weight. Very picturesque and popular among the tourist population, their powerful motors can go faster in heavy traffic than a regular car as they weave in and out of lanes in crowded city streets; however, they are hazardous because they offer almost no protection in case of an accident; they can tip over if going too fast, and since they are open on all sides, passengers are exposed to the polluting exhaust fumes of other cars. In spite of all this, tuk-tuks continuously zoom by packed with 2 or 3 large-sized tourists in search of a quaint, thrilling experience. Some expatriates here call tuk-tuks, the Chariots of smoke; nonetheless, many of our visitors don’t want to miss this absolutely captivating way of traveling around Bangkok. For some unknown reason, many tuk-tuk drivers hail from the rural areas of Thailand and have a reputation for not knowing Bangkok very well, as a result getting people lost in this enormous, crowded metropolis. Drivers aren’t required to undergo any training; in fact, some have never taken a driving test Because tuk-tuks don’t have meters, it is essential for people to bargain with the driver for a fare price that’s acceptable to both parties, taking into account the fact that taxi fares start at 35 Baht for the first 3 KM. If the fare is not agreed to in advance, drivers may stray from the most direct route making the trip longer, hence more expensive and no doubt ending in an unpleasant situation. As urban transportation, tuk-tuks are thought to solve some of the notorious Bangkok traffic congestion; on the other hand, the spewing contamination of their engines, I feel, makes them a threat to the environment. Built of sheet metal roofing with water-proof canvas, a flimsy frame, three small wheels and, ornamental carvings for decoration, tuk-tuks actually look like versions of high-speed three-wheeled golf carts. They are able to make u -turns in one small lane of traffic - with room to spare - making them convenient three-wheeler motorcycles with the ability to carry passengers or cargo on the rear seat. Presently, Bangkok’s municipality is trying to get rid of them by placing a ban on new tuk-tuks as they are loud and contribute considerably to air pollution, not to mention the many accidents in which tuk-tuks are involved; however, it may take years for the present ones to die out. As with many other regulations, I have no idea if this policy is being enforced. Many local residents can't bear the tuk-tuk, and were it not for their attractiveness with tourists, their days on Bangkok roads would undeniably be numbered. At times, during rush-hour, it’s easier to hire a tuk-tuk for a short distance because even though slowly, they keep moving when cars and buses cannot; tuk-tuk’s can maneuver in and out of traffic and partly onto the sidewalk (if there is one) without any shame or guilt -- much to the acquiescence of pedestrians who also have to share and contend with the commotion of vendors hawking their commodities, rivaling for very limited space. Add 95% humidity, a temperature of 98F, a headache from the noise and a sore throat from the pollution and you may get an idea of a typical Bangkok rush-hour. If riding in a tuk-tuk in heavy traffic, a great part of the time may be spent sitting on the road at a standstill, locked up by hundreds of other cars, motorbikes, buses and fellow tuk- tuks all in pursuit of the endless, unnamed back streets and passageways that navigate the one and two-way winding corkscrews around the canals of Bangkok. Once Tuk-tuks finally abandon the street scene and are relegated to a museum of transportation or a metal junk heap somewhere in the city, their symbolic allure remains much like Thailand’s inhabitants: sluggish yet hasty, deafening, and indifferent polluters of the environment; there are multitudes of them; they are charming, slight of frame and they smoke a great deal. By Edie Wilcox@ May 2006

Thai Spirit Houses

I have become fascinated with the Thai ‘spirit houses’ I see all over Thailand. Some are colorful and made of cement; others are intricately carved in teak wood. In present-day Siam, animistic rituals are still overtly practiced and given the fact that spirits are ubiquitously surrounding us, the miniature spirit dwellings are seen everywhere. They are typically set out in the outer corners of residential high-rise buildings, outside of commercial properties, in the backyards of private homes, and in shops, too. Even taxi drivers surround themselves with small replicas or altars on their dashboards. Spirits are invited to reside in these minute homes in order to protect the property and its residents. These small models of Thai houses and Buddhist temples stand on pedestals on the grounds of most properties. They are present in single and multi-family homes in cities and throughout the countryside as well. Usually mounted on bamboo or stone bases, they rest in one corner of the lot. Spirit houses show up in new and old properties to encourage fortuity and deflect misfortune. Spirit houses must be displayed predominantly in the garden and their shadow must never superimpose the main house. The Thai people believe that spirits reside everywhere, in animate as well as in inanimate objects. Spirits inhabit our world and move freely in the same spaces as humans do. They are present in trees, rocks, the oceans, and the skies. Once a home is built or a move to a new place is intended, a house for the spirits must also be brought in or constructed. We even bought one recently by the roadside that links the beach resort of Hua Hin to Bangkok. It now proudly and beautifully stands in our apartment’s foyer. When Buddhism first grasped the land of Siam over 2500 years ago, animism or spirit worship, had been experienced extensively all through the region, expanding right alongside ancient spirit beliefs. Today, animistic convictions in the spirits that reside in sacred dead trees, animals or people have been greatly fused with Buddhism. In order to appease spirits, Thais make offerings of flower garlands, incense, candles and food placing them inside and outside the spirit houses; they also sprinkle holy water obtained from monks; and place figurines inside the small dwellings to represent the residents of the bigger houses, thus bringing harmony and happiness between them. Our own American Embassy compound in Bangkok contains a beautiful and elaborate spirit house on its premises. Thai Buddhism and animism seem to be inseparable, much the same as pagan practices seem indivisible in Christianity (Christmas tree). In Thailand, Buddhism has progressed side by side with an ancient array of superstitions to explain nature, thecosmos, and the unexplainable. Religion is at the core of Thai culture; it gives life to all traditions, social systems, art and literature of the nation. Bangkok for instance, is a busy, dangerous and overpopulated metropolis; people need all kinds of protection, security and precautions to lead their lives. The phrase ‘it’s a jungle out there’ never fit a place more accurately. Perpetual and erratic traffic patterns; holes and uneven pavement on streets and almost non-existent sidewalks obstruct pedestrians from walking safely in a congestion of exhaust fumes, motorcycles, small vans, smoke spewing buses and dangerous overhead wiring connections making life a perilous daily reality. Protection is greatly needed and the spirit world is ready to provide that security. Nearly every Thai home, business company or shop includes a spirit house on their premises and daily offerings are always available. Finding comfort and security in a world of spirits is necessary; the Thais live primarily to truly enjoy (sanuk) present life but at the same time, they aim to live it with decorum, good behavior and self control as these are superior principles in the attainment of final enlightenment. Believing in reincarnation means that each individual's karma (destiny) determines their fate; an old Thai proverb says ‘Do good and receive good, do evil and that is what you will get”. By leading a superior life and observing the 5 important teachings -- helping the poor; kindness towards others; donations to monks on their early morning rounds; contributing to the temple and meditation -- attaining enlightenment becomes possible. I also just learned that merit can be transferred to others if people wish to. The belief that spirits inhabit everything that surrounds us provides contentment and comfort to the majority who by ‘making merit’ along the way -- in the manner of good deeds to others and offerings to the spirits, the monks and the Buddha -- will unquestionably afford enhanced spiritual enlightenment and immortality of the soul. Monks get the highest merit points because they have accepted life in poverty, their only possessions being their robes, food bowl, a bag, a hand paper fan and an umbrella. In all probability, believers of animism seek to make sense of natural disasters and a violent world; appeasing the spirits with material offerings provides them with a refuge and a passage to level-headedness and tranquility. By Edie Wilcox@ March 2006

Buddhist Temples of Chaing Mai

Last week I spent 8 days in Chiang Mai in northern Thailand, a city whose sheer existence has always been dependent on the gorges and valleys along the Ping River. The Ping supplied a meandering thoroughfare across the mountainous barricade that surrounds the lush valleys; a waterway that allowed the ancient city of Chiang Mai and the surrounding areas, self sufficiency while carrying out business with its powerful neighbors: China, Burma and the farther kingdoms around the Gulf of Siam. Interesting for me, was the realization that the Ping River has been the pathway alongside which commercial traffic prospered, connecting southern China with the extensive and lush areas of the Chao Phraya river basin, along whose shores thrive the metropolitan areas of Bangkok. Today, Chiang Mai is the second largest city in Thailand, an old dame still preserving her traditional charm and centuries-old culture. During the 13th Century (AD), the feudal kingdom of Lanna (the Kingdom of a Million Fields) had its center in what they called Chiang Mai (First City); their dominion spread throughout most of northern Thailand, parts of Laos and Burma (now Myanmar) and a fraction of Southern China. Theravada Buddhism arose here, following the original teachings from the Nepalese Siddharta Gautama, the founder of Buddhism, offering a resplendent legacy of cultural heritage to the areas comprised by the kingdom. Thai Buddhist temples or wats, are the heart and symbol of villages, districts, cities and towns. Temples have often served as orphanages, schools, meeting halls and hospitals, as much as places of worship. Before the creation of school buildings, the education of children was held in temples. Thai temples house an abbot who is responsible for the well-being of the community and people in difficulty always call for his advice. The abbot is often elderly with impeccable, reasonable and insightful wisdom. Monasteries are also home for unwanted dogs and cats who mysteriously find their way to the temple grounds. Every temple or wat is accompanied by brilliant color and stunning architectural design. Exquisite and very large Buddha images of gold, marble, wood or jade greet visitors from various angles making for a rather flamboyant but always thrilling experience. The Buddha images have corporeal traits that are largely determined by convention; all however, have certain generalities including very long earlobes and a lotus bud on the head which symbolizes enlightenment. Some may be sitting, reclining or standing. A temple is a large compound comprising several structures; generally, the one in the center will display Buddha images and an open area for worshippers to pray. Mural paintings relating the life of the Buddha cover the walls. On the exterior of this central structure one or many chedis, called stuppas in English, may be found, these are pointed, conical towers made of plaster, brick or stone and coated with gold, or brass. These stuppas are burial sites, generally containing the remains and relics of buried religious leaders. According to one of my guides, upon cremation, many Thais have their remains deposited into compartments on the sides of a chedi, identified by small, commemorative inscriptions attached to the outside walls. Another small structure within a temple’s grounds is the bot where the monks are ordained; this place is not accessible to women but I hear there is a sacred Buddha image within. The kuti are dwellings for monks. They can be private or shared. These rooms are small and empty as monks only meditate and sleep in their rooms. Often ordained monks have their own room while novices share. A library building almost always forms part of the temple grounds and as all other structures is usually highly decorated with small, deeply colored glass mosaics. These reflecting glass tiles are believed to drive away evil spirits because on seeing their reflection they will be driven away. As a rule, a pair of nagas or long serpent-like dragons guards stairs and doorways to deflect evil spirits from temple buildings. Monks, monk novices and orphaned children learn in the library and meditate outdoors, under the shade of a thick bodhi tree, which is said to have been the tree under which the Buddha became “enlightened”. All temples have planted Bodhi trees in their grounds. Books about Buddha teachings and doctrines are kept in the library, but there’s a wealth of other information as well; monks are more often than not, people with the greatest knowledge at any gathering. Other structures include the monks’ common living facilities where teaching and meditation as well as housekeeping and administration of the temple are left to the monks who run them. The temples of northern Thailand differ from others in the rest of the country because there is a profusion of mythical figures and creatures owing their origins to the folklore of nearby Burma and China. There are Singhas or protective lion statues; Himalayan Kinnari or beautiful female topped angels with winged bodies and large bird legs; and swan-like figures decorating gates or standing on poles in the front areas of central temple buildings. Large, heavy Buddhist bells complete the grounds as they hang from massive wooden stands on the tiled courtyard. Bells were originally used to announce scheduled events during the course of the day; nowadays, they remain for general early wake-up calls or occasions when monks (using a wooden striker) call for special activities. Smaller bells hang suspended from the horizontal beams of temple halls, gently swaying in the breeze. In front of the main Buddha image in every temple, there will be a variety of offerings such as lotus blossoms; bronze or copper money trees; incense and candles burning at different speeds, and also food. All these are contributions donated by worshippers to make merit for the future of their souls. Thai Buddhist temples are an assault to the eyes; ornate, every now and then grandiose, but always stirring, forever lingering in the mind as an example of Thailand: a passionate - but not fanatical - religious country. By Edie Wilcox – January 2006, Thailand