Showing posts with label Tales of Asia. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Tales of Asia. Show all posts

Tuesday

The Jim Thompson Story

American Jim Thompson has been known for decades as the ‘Father of Thai Silk’, and this year on the centenary of his birth, Thailand celebrates the man responsible for the silk industry’s significant revival. Easter Sunday 1967 dawned warm and peaceful as Thompson, away for the weekend at a rest-house in the Cameron Highlands region of Malaysia, set off on his daily solitary walk. On this particular day no one saw him leave and no one heard him return. After an absence of several hours, local authorities were alerted, and teams sent out to comb the areas where he frequently hiked. The search lasted for weeks; no evidence of Thompson was found, and to this day, his mysterious disappearance has never been explained.
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As World War II came to an end in 1945, many Americans remained as civilians in different corners of the world rather than return home to the United States.
Jim Thompson, a former agent for the Office of Strategic Services (OSS) -- the covert wartime US intelligence service -- was one of those people searching for new opportunity and adventure.
His assignment to the Far East had been to parachute into northeastern Thailand to begin a resistance force against the Japanese. After Hiroshima and Japan’s subsequent defeat however, his mission was aborted.
Arriving in Bangkok shortly after the war ended, Jim fell in love with the hospitable, exotic culture and people of Thailand; he stayed on to re-establish the American Embassy and the restoration of the well-known but aged Oriental Hotel.
By chance, and through his travels to the northeastern provinces, Thompson came into contact with the vanishing Thai silk industry. In the past, the production and sale of colorful raw silk had brought precious extra income to northeastern farmers, but early in the 20th century, when Chinese and Japanese mass-produced silks hit the marketplace, the rather small Thai silk cottage industry declined profoundly.
When Thompson came into the scene, a few farmers were still producing small quantities of raw silk; comparing samples, he noted the material was coarse and rutted, bold in color and quite different from the smooth, machine-made silks most people in the west were familiar with. He felt certain that silk of such extraordinary texture, raw beauty and boldness would command world-wide market demand if its production were suitably promoted and structured.
Learning as much as possible about silk and the business of restoring the industry, Thompson found that the practice of traditional silk-making was lengthy and difficult. The woven, bold colors were obtained from dying the material by hand using mostly natural vegetable dyes; then, hand-woven again on bamboo looms; the resulting creation a riot of vivid groupings of lime and mulberry, cobalt and crimson hues.
Finding enduring weaving families within the vastness of Bangkok province wasn’t easy, but Thompson finally came upon a silk-weaving district known as Ban Krua. Here he discovered a small Muslim community of weavers who made the beautiful raw silk brocade he was so taken with. Although their business was promptly fading, the community was flattered by the idea of rejuvenating their traditional livelihood. Persuaded by Mr. Thompson, a few weavers agreed to make colorful sample lengths of different patterned silks for Jim to promote overseas.
Through American connections in New York City, Jim approached fashion magazine editors and designers who, apparently, within days examined the silk material, approving of its quality and distinction. A few months later, Thai silks adorned models that graced the glossy pages of Vogue. With almost overnight success, the weavers of Ban Krua began the prosperous revitalization of Thai silk along with the many communities of silk masters in other areas of the country. Under Jim Thompson’s direction, his personal fortune and the Thai Silk Industry thrived significantly. In 1948 Thompson established the Thai Silk Company Ltd., encouraging production to be done in the traditional manner of centuries before. The silk manufacturing revival was welcomed by the Royal Family and by all Thais; growing competition from other silk business manufacturers provided the necessary and beneficial tool in the industry’s revitalization.
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The Jim Thompson Thai Silk Company Ltd. continues to grow today and their high quality silks are globally renowned for their uniqueness and color. The corporation employs more than twenty thousand people, and although factories are now using automated machinery, cottage-industry silk still continues to be woven in Thailand.
Jim Thompson’s legacy has grown exponentially since his disappearance in 1967.To this day, speculation about his fate continues. Although no trace of him was ever found, it was rumored that he’d been kidnapped by either communists or perhaps business competitors who wanted him out of the picture. Nonetheless, through the years people came to believe that he may have fallen into a hidden cave and then eaten by wild animals. Whatever the truth may be, Jim Thompson’s fate still remains a mystery.
Only 61 at the time of his disappearance, Jim Thompson’s life and death have become legendary and romanticized all over Thailand. The resurrection of the silk industry; the enterprising, heirless business corporation left behind, plus an affluent traditional teak home -- now a museum of priceless Southeast Asian arts -- the Jim Thompson spirit lives on. The Thai Silk Company Ltd. has branch stores all over Southeast Asia as well as Europe and the USA.
More reading can be done on the subject of the legendary ‘silk king’ Jim Thompson, if interested. An attention-grabbing book by William Warren entitled, “Jim Thompson, the Unsolved Mystery” has been out for quite some time.

Hill Tribes of Thailand

Early last year we visited some of the mountainous hill-tribe areas of northern Thailand; the chilly, dry weather was a welcome blessing after living in tropical Bangkok for several months. The various ethnic minorities scattered along the hills intrigued me, for they have preserved their own language, spiritual beliefs, distinct culture, and colorful style of dress.
The major ethnic clusters in Thailand include Hmong; Karen; Yao; Akha; Lisu; and Lahu. All groups are hospitable and encourage visitors to their villages, providing the unique opportunity to see and experience their lifestyle. After some research, I’ve learned that for the most part, the tribes journeyed to Thailand from the frozen expanses of Mongolia and Tibet by way of western China within the last 300 years; this, being part of a continuing exodus of ancient cultures who filtered south in search of freedom, labor, and better living conditions. For a time, Chinese Nationalists attempted outlawing ethnic groups from speaking their own languages and practicing their culture; fortunately, without much success. The hill tribes’ beginnings are shrouded in myth, and are as hazy and muted as the daybreak mist that cloaks their hills. Within their semi-nomadic pace, the hill tribes moved gradually, avoiding social unrest and war, always motivated by their need for new land. Close to half a million people from 20 different ethnic groups are estimated to reside in Thailand as well as Cambodia, some still in Laos, Vietnam and Myanmar (Burma). When the United States pulled out of Southeast Asia in the mid 1970’s, the Hmong, who had fought alongside U.S. forces in Vietnam and against the communist element in Laos, became the target of brutal retaliation from the new governments. During their escape across the Mekong River to seek refuge within Thai borders, tens of thousands of Hmong perished at the hands of the Communist Pathet Lao, the victims of hunger and chemical-biological warfare. I visited a Hmong village not far from Chiang Mai because in an earlier period I had come in contact with a group of Hmong people who had migrated to the USA from Laos in the early 1980’s. Our son’s best friend in first grade was Hmong and now, here in Thailand, I became curious to learn about this group’s rare traditional background.
There are an estimated 12 different Hmong hill tribe clans in Thailand, subdivided into Blue Hmong and White Hmong, distinguishable only by their different style and color of dress. While long ago some of the tribal groups’ income came from fields of poppies to produce opium, they now earn a livelihood through conventional agriculture. Most survive by harvesting rice and corn while others cultivate coffee on uneven mountainsides, tending to migrate when the soil is depleted. Other favored cash crops include strawberries and kidney beans. Most supplement their income by marketing their traditional and exquisitely embroidered textiles embellished with silver.
Walking up through the village, I was heartily greeted by people on the road, or from the many shops lining the street. Few cars, motorbikes, chickens, children, older people and dogs also paved the way. Hmong houses sit right on the ground with a packed-down earth floor and the roof nearly extending to the soil, their main level rests on an above-ground area used for food storage. Other hill tribes, however, favor bamboo houses raised on stilts with grassy thatched rooftops plus an area beneath them to shelter their domesticated pigs, chickens and buffalos. Most hill tribes live in extended family units, sharing cramped quarters with as many as twelve or more family members. Most sleep on mats on bamboo litters and many children don’t attend school. I mostly saw women stitching outdoors, children playing on the road; several elders sitting in the sun, radio or TV voices coming from inside. At first, newly married couples settle in the husband’s parental home adding their labor force to the common household while also advancing the wife’s assimilation into the new clan. Women become part of their husbands’ families after marriage. The whole family works together steering and supporting the newlyweds in their marital responsibilities. After a trial period, a bride price is paid by the husband, and the marriage is considered final; the more industrious the woman is, the higher the bride price. Hmong women are expected to work hard within the family; raising the children, planting and harvesting plus weaving textiles in their spare time. Men are good at making crossbows, musical instruments, and other items of wood, bamboo and rattan. Many are also accomplished blacksmiths and gunsmiths. Colorful textiles and Hmong clothing such as the intricately embroidered pleated skirts with bands of red, blue and white worn under black satin jackets are in high demand by the general public as are the black baggy pants gathered at the waist with a long wide blue cummerbund and simple blue-cuffed jackets. Hmong women can be seen at markets throughout Thailand selling their clothing and embroideries proving to have good entrepreneurial skills. A religious people, the Hmong are firm animists, believing that tangible and intangible domains coexist; their shamans use dramatic methods to contact spirits that allegedly influence the course of human life. The Hmong speak in a monosyllabic, tonal language that includes many dialects; their written words, barely surviving after intense Chinese persecution. In the past, Hmong women have tried to maintain their written symbols by stitching them into their textiles. I am told that the Hmong are called ‘Meo’ by the Thai, a derogatory term meaning barbarian, due to their Mongolian or western Chinese origins. In Thailand most hill tribes concentrate along the northern borders; however, internal migration has positioned them as far south as Bangkok. Now living in close proximity with their Thai neighbors, tribes risk complete assimilation into the vortex of the general culture; the coming generations will likely see some of their traditions disappear, and as with most other ancient peoples, their rich legacy will become part of a historic, tumultuous past. I trust most of their oral history will be recorded accordingly. EW

Traditional Thai Massage

Increasingly, Bangkok urbanites are finding that their level of fitness and overall health have seen better days. Lack of exercise and poor eating habits are taking their toll as city dwellers hurry to and from work in polluted and traffic congested surroundings. Upper respiratory problems, chronic diseases and obesity are all on the rise. Ancient healing and alternative medicine methods as well as a long and trusted history in traditional Thai massage therapy, are well established practices in this part of the world. Progressively, people have become more aware of massage therapy’s restoration on the harmonious balance between body, mind and spirit. The age old practice of dispensing treatment intended to restore health, soothe tired muscles and bring inner peace has not lost its importance in today’s Thai society as young former skeptics line the massage shops in malls and sidewalks all over towns, cities and beaches in this populous country.
Bits of History
Traditional Thai massage is deeply rooted in history. Developed from early Chinese acupuncture, and employed by Buddhist monks for centuries, massage therapy was used along with herbal remedies before modern medicine came into the scene. The technique for Thai massage is based on the currents of energy believed to flow throughout the body’s many passageways and their convergence at many points. Pressure can be applied or needles inserted at these points to unblock the energy streams and remove blockages thus allowing free energy flow to balance the body's inner systems. Getting a regular massage is practiced today by older Thais as this has repeatedly proved to support good health and longevity. Increasingly though, the younger generations, who pushed massage aside as a thing of the past, are coming back to the rebirth of the movement that’s drawing in more tourism to this country than the famed beaches and amazing Buddhist temples.
Traditional Massage Instruction
One of the oldest, most beautiful and largest religious temples in Bangkok, Wat Pho, is also home to one of the better international centers for learning (and receiving) traditional Thai massage. The temple houses the national Thai Headquarters for the Instruction and Preservation of Traditional Medicine, including massage therapy. The manipulation techniques were so respected that in the 1700’s by order of King Rama III, the procedures were engraved into slate tablets and placed around the great temple to ascertain their safety. The sixty tablets linger to this day; some undecipherable by time while other images serve as samples for the applied techniques followed by today’s school of massage therapy. Dating no less than 2500 years, Thailand’s traditional medicine is the by-product of long and diverse historical and cultural progress. Attaining an even level of societal stability, the Thais found ways to decipher the mysteries of the human body including the skilled capacity to treat disease and disharmony of physical, emotional, and spiritual origins.
Ancient Healing Art Form
The art of traditional Thai massage is said to have ambled from India to Thailand along with Buddhism in 200 BC. Traditional Thai massage has evolved through centuries of knowledge stressing that the body’s life energy extends along lines in a crisscross pattern to distribute blood and life energy to bones, muscles and organs thus unblocking inner body hubs of disease. Massage rejuvenates bodily systems -- by increasing energy and lymphatic flow -- as well as the skin’s surface.
Treatments and Techniques
Besides traditional massage (which may include full body; shoulders, back and neck; lower body, legs and feet; and head massage therapies, all at once or separately) Thai massage therapy traditionally begins the manipulation at the feet as these are considered the beginning and ending of the energy lines of the body. The massage healer will use his/her feet, palms, thumbs, elbows, forearms and knees to apply deep pressure along the energy pathways. Other techniques resemble a form of yoga administered with twists and stretches of the patient’s limbs. Using their palms and thumbs on the soles of patients’ feet with gentle and consistent pressure, masseuses continue up each leg and upper body using a variety of techniques. At times, the healers or manipulators as they are sometimes called in Thai pull and push with their own feet and knead with their fists along energy lines. Thai massage is slow paced, each motion meant to bring harmony and peace into the body by creating a feeling of balance and well-being. Arms and legs are stretched beyond their normal range of motion but never in a painful way. The end result is one of calm and balance.
Spas
Thailand’s spas offer an array of cures by means of Thai herbs and essential oils. Bodies can be exfoliated and aromatized leaving a youthful and firmer appearance; there are body wraps that will energize and reduce inner water content as well as all type of hair removal techniques. Essential oils common in Thailand include nutmeg and mint; magrut, a small lime which is great for hair-care; lemon grass, a popular cooking herb that clears nasal passages; and prai, a type of ginger, an antiseptic which doubles-up as a skin-beautifier and purifier.
The Person as a Whole
From head to toe, Thais and tourists alike, treat themselves to traditional rub-downs. A foot massage is a pampering tool from which to treat the whole body as it re-directs the flow of energy through the right channels. By the manipulation of the different parts of the foot, (reflexology) a reflex action can be produced in another part of the body, thus treating diverse physical concerns. In Thailand, spas aim to treat the person as a whole; many offer two day, three day and week-long treatment courses including yoga, nutrition and meditation. Unlike US spas, their Thai counterparts are very affordable. There’s a spa for every pocket book as Thais see them as a necessity for coping with their hectic pace of life, pollution and horrendous traffic and not as a pampering luxury. EW

Friday

The Moon Festival

Edie Wilcox@ September 2006 In countless ethnic societies around the globe, the pleasures derived from food -- its taste, smell and visual presentation -- parallel the satisfactions of a happy, well-lived life. Happiness is food and vice versa. Thais are no exception to this rule; they are proud and passionate about their world renowned cuisine and with good reason. Thailand’s culinary delights combine the great influences of the diverse ethnic groups that inhabit its territory. China has had the greatest impact on Thai gastronomy as culturally and historically, the Chinese make-up the most important ethnic group in the country. Chinese eateries and traditions abound in Bangkok and other large cities, and for many centuries, itinerant Chinese merchants came and went between China and the land of Siam. Some of them intermarried choosing to settle along the banks of rivers from where their business was conducted. Chinese legacies exist all over the country and the rest of Southeast Asia, for that matter, as significant trade from the 11th century onwards brought lands together in economic, cultural and political pacts. At the first October full moon this year, the Chinese in these parts will celebrate the Moon Festival, a tradition brought along by those long-ago merchants. The fest’s star is the moon cake, a Chinese custom that’s alive and kicking in the streets of Bangkok.

Chinese Mooncakes and Legends Usually baked, consisting of a thin tender skin enveloping a sweet and slightly oily filling, mooncakes used to exclusively be enjoyed throughout the Mid-Autumn Moon Festivities. Today, however, they seem to be a part of Chinese confections, year round. While mostly loved by children, mooncakes are also favored by grown-ups in the late afternoon with several cups with jasmine green tea. Moon cakes are intended to be shared with friends and family in honor of the moon festival and should never be eaten alone. Plentiful in the autumn months, the time for moon cake sampling has already begun in Bangkok. This year’s Moon Cake Festival ends October 6 which is the 15th day of the eighth moon in the Chinese calendar. In Asia as well as in other parts of the world, the moon, sun and stars have been the foundation of many a fable and myth.

Akin to many agricultural societies, the Chinese regulated their sowing and harvesting by the phases of the moon. Once the harvest season came to its end, festivities to commemorate and revere its fullness and influence over people’s lives became a symbol of harmony and luck celebrated with special foods and colorful lanterns. One myth tells the story of a time during the Yuan Dynasty when China was ruled by the Mongolian people. Leaders from the preceding Sung dynasty were unhappy at submitting to foreign rule, and tackled the coordination of a rebellion without it being discovered. The leaders of the rebellion, knowing that the Moon Festival was drawing near, ordered the making of special cakes. A message was baked into each moon cake with an outline of the ambush. On the night of the Moon Festival, the rebels successfully attacked and overthrew the government, thus instituting the Ming Dynasty, distinguished for the establishment of a strong army and navy; the printing of books; the construction of the Great Wall and exquisite porcelains. Nowadays, moon cakes honor this legendary Ming Dynasty story.

To honor the Harvest Moon, cakes shaped like moons are sold in Bangkok and other communities with large Chinese populations throughout Southeast Asia. Celebrating the Festival, families gather in buildings, hike up hills, or camp in open beaches and fields to gaze at the wondrous, rising deep yellow moon believing their wishes will be granted. They also carry candlelit lanterns adorned with traditional designs prepared for the occasion. It is a wonderful sight as the hills, and open spaces alight with thousands of lanterns in the cool darkness of evening. Today, lanterns come in colorful paper-shaped carp, butterflies, rabbits and goldfish. In Chinese mythology, carp represent health, power and wisdom; butterflies are a symbol of longevity and goldfish embody fortune and wealth.

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According to a traditional Chinese tale, a fine-looking girl named Chang E worked in the Jade Emperor's palace in the kingdom of heaven, a place where everyone lived among immortals. The kingdom was an idyllic place, and nonviolent. After accidentally breaking a porcelain jar, however, an angered Jade Emperor banished Chang E to Earth to live among mortals. Once there, she was transformed into a member of a poor farming family. Approaching her teenage years, her beauty flourishing, she abandoned her childish ways, embracing womanhood. Admiring her beauty from afar, a hunter discovered Chang E viewing herself in the reflection of a pond. The two soon became lovers. One day, ten suns were rising in the sky instead of one, casting scorching heat across the land. The hunter stepped forward and shot an arrow into the sky, through the nine extra suns sinking them into the oceans. Instantly becoming a hero and the source of great admiration, he soon married Chang E. The two lived happily, but eventually the hunter became a tyrant, ruling with a cruel and oppressive hand. He sought great power and ordered that an elixir of immortality be created in order to extend his life. Chang E came upon it and inadvertently consumed the elixir, infuriating her husband. Attempting to flee him, she jumped from the window of her palace bedroom, yet rather than falling, she somehow floated through the sky towards the glowing moon. Today the moon is revered by the Chinese and viewed at its fullest during the Autumn festival in order to make wishes and to catch a glimpse of the dazzling maiden residing within.

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Saturday

Sixty Years on the Throne

For much of their history, which goes back longer than 700 years, Siamese kings maintained a healthy distance from the demands of foreign conquerors. Thailand retained its autonomy throughout history claiming the distinction of being the only un-colonized country in Southeast Asia. Following a peaceful coup in 1932, the Kingdom became a constitutional monarchy and some time later it changed its name from Siam, "the land of the White Elephant" to Thailand, “the land of the Free”.

For several disturbing decades, Thailand was hindered by turbulent clashes, offenses and military dictatorships. In the mid 1990’s, however, Thailand managed to be re-born from its ashes emerging into the reasonably stable and economically thriving nation it is today. His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej -- Rama IX -- along with his consort, Queen Sirikit, have shared Thailand’s royal throne for the past sixty years. They stand as the longest reigning sovereign monarchs in the world conveying unwavering harmony while infusing the kingdom with compelling vitality pertinent to current times. This past June, massive celebrations to commemorate the 60 years of the King’s ascension to the throne, clearly illustrated the extraordinary outburst of public pride, personal emotion and affection for the 79 year-old, much-revered monarch. Much loved by his people, the king has shown personal affinity for rural and urban issues, maintaining that agriculture will always be the basis of this land.

World dignitaries and royalty from twenty-nine countries gathered in Bangkok for the Monarch’s Diamond Jubilee and were treated to view the Royal Barge Procession along the city’s major waterway, the Chao Phraya River. The unique Thai Royal barges cruising along the “River of Kings”, is an ancient tradition revived by King Bhumibol in the late 1950’s. This type of barge procession is reserved for very special occasions and the one in June 2006 was the grandest and most regal of all; 2,000 Royal Navy rowers and 52 royal barges were included in the special ceremony. King Bhumibol Adulyadej succeeded the throne of Thailand in June 1946, at the age of 19, being the ninth ruler of the Chakri Dynasty established in 1782. Called the “Builder of the Nation”, King Bhumibol -- who has shown deep concern for his country’s inequalities -- has worked tirelessly to guide Thailand into the 21st century with an approach that is eco-sensitive and fair to the rural population. Multi tasking on his agricultural projects, His Majesty’s astute vision has been recognized internationally and has carried Thailand into an important manufacturing mode.

King Bhumibol has sponsored infinite projects and overseen experiments in re-forestation, irrigation, land development and farm technology; He calls these projects “Living Museums”. Deforested areas a decade ago have now given way to arable farmland; restoration of the ecological balance is the country’s most urgent priority in rural development. The King of Thailand is an avid reader and is also known as “The Literary King” because his works provide observant principles and philosophies akin to his “Living Museums” reflecting his ideas for technical innovation and rural development. Providing inspiration to millions, the published royal literary works often discuss aspects of gratefulness, kindness and perseverance as essential values for living. Most of the royal stories offer motivation to a society burdened with increasingly expanding disparities in economic and social status. King Bhumibol is viewed as the “Father of the Country” and accordingly, Father’s Day in Thailand is celebrated on the monarch’s birthday, December 5, every year.

Offering assistance through the network of various charitable foundations under His sponsorship, His Majesty the King has provided moral support and encouragement to people in rural expansion projects designed to improve their livelihoods. Wholly devoted to a democratic kingdom, Bhumibol Adulyadej is a loyal defender of its principles in the government of Thailand. His tenacity and devotion for his subjects’ welfare have greatly added to the political stability and economic growth that Thailand has enjoyed over the past six decades. The King’s observations clearly reveal him as a caring, rounded humanitarian who fervently voices that … “I cannot impose my ideas on the people, I can only suggest”. “Persuade, never impose. And while pursuing material security people need to strive for inner peace of mind through spiritual purification; development must respect the diversity of regional geography and different ways of life”. The people of Thailand regard their beloved King Bhumibol as the soul of the Thai Kingdom, a man who has truly earned their reverence. Long Live the King! @Edie Wilcox, 07/06

Latest: September 25 2006

Unfortunately, one week ago, on September 19, the Royal Thai Army staged a coup against the government of Prime Minister Thaksin Shinawatra. The coup, which was Thailand’s first in fifteen years, followed a year-long political crisis involving Mr. Thaksin and political opponents and occurred less than a month before elections were scheduled to be held, on October 15. These elections had however already been postponed, and were likely to be held late in November. The military cancelled the upcoming elections, suspended the constitution, dissolved Parliament, banned protests and all political activities, suppressed and censored the media, declared martial law, and arrested Cabinet members. The coup was bloodless, with there were no casualties. It has been reported that King Bhumibol has endorsed the coup because the political state of affairs was about to spark off into aggression. With the military government in place and no demonstrations permitted, the feeling is that much violence has been averted. Life goes on as usual here and except for a few military tanks and some soldiers on the highways, nothing seems out of the ordinary.

The Wine Country of Siam

A recently arrived American friend of mine, an obstinate and devoted wine connoisseur, tasted the superb Syrah wine I served her and commented on the full bodied fragrance and physical warmth with hints of woodland spices, “This must be a French Syrah, right?” “WRONG!” When I showed her the bottle, she was astounded, Thai wine?, she asked, staring at the pretty-labeled bottle in utter disbelief. Wine has become the latest rage in Thailand; Thai vintners are eager to benefit from the budding market for locally produced wines although they have encountered obstacles along the road because in terms of sales Thai wines haven’t been able to match imported ones. Thai consumers have a penchant for imported items as evidence of their social status in a country that’s progressively more upwardly mobile and disposable income is on the rise. Because of all these reasons our curiosity was peaked so we recently spent a weekend enjoying the wine country on the foothills that cut across the valley along the Khao Yai National Forest, not far from Bangkok. Our first stop was the GranMonte Estate, a quaint ‘boutique’ winery, the smallest and youngest of the vineyards that flank the Khao Yai expanse. Family owned and founded in 1999, bounded by vineyards perfectly trimmed in staked rows, GranMonte welcomed us to an ideal setting complete with gently sloping evergreen ranges, tidy gardens and a pond; a perfect background for this small winery - and for us, a superb break from the hustle and bustle of Bangkok. Situated at the 14th parallel, the vineyards at khao Yai are distanced from the traditional 30th to 50th parallels deemed ideal for viniculture in the southern and northern hemispheres where wine production has prospered for centuries. However, the 1200 feet above sea level along with loamy, clay soils and slightly cooler temperatures seemed to make the deciding difference in providing good harvests. Thailand is becoming a pioneer for the ‘New Latitude Wines’ because they originate from superior vines nurtured within the margins of nearly perfect environmental conditions in a slender strip of land at a latitude of only 14 degrees north of the equator. Owners and vintners Mr. and Mrs. Lohitnavy offer short tours of their –off the premises- wine-making facility and answer questions from inquisitive visitors. The 40-acre family estate includes the vineyards, the Montino gourmet shop and cellar door for wine-tasting, and VinCotto restaurant – where Mrs. Lohitnavy indulges her love of cooking. Their fertile acreage incorporates Tempranillo, Syrah, Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon wine grapes while table grapes such as Thomson seedless, Hamburg and Muscat among others, are also grown in the grounds. During the tour, the wine-making process from harvest to bottle was explained. Hundreds of oak barrels stack a room where some wines are aged before bottling; oak casks add additional aromas to the brew and the best ones are aged between one and three years after harvesting. GranMonte’s original grapevines Syrah and Chenin Blanc came to Khao Yai directly from France. Mr. Lohitnavy says, “There’s much sunshine in Khao Yai, but cool nights and breezes are good for Syrah and Chenin Blanc grapes; akin to the south of France, they thrive in these parts”. GranMonte’s premiere vintage in 2001 yielded 20,000 bottles of red and 6,000 of white wines; a year later, production improved by 25%, and moving ahead ever since. Sampling wines at their cellar also provided spectacular mountain vistas in a very relaxed atmosphere. Surprisingly light and crisp their recent vintage Chenin Blanc was favored by most people in our group. Second best was the ruby red Syrah or Shiraz blend, a full bodied but mellow elixir that would pair excellently with red meats, or pasta. For wine and fine food enthusiasts, VinCotto Restaurant included dishes drawn from fusions of diverse gastronomic traditions prepared admirably, and with practical elegance. Chugging along on first gear, our van climbed its way once again through abrupt twisting lanes bordering the dense tropical forest along the foothills of the national park. Located in the heartland of the highly-acclaimed "wine country", PB Valley Winery & Vineyard is one of Thailand’s largest and the very first to set up shop in the Khao Yai region. Similarly to GranMonte, the valley here rises 1000 to 1200 feet above sea level and has proved to be an excellent valley-floor for vineyards. The PB Valley Winery sits in the heart of a 320-hectare prolific estate, only 80 of them devoted to viniculture. In operation for sixteen years, the PB Valley estate has emerged as the pioneer of Thailand’s finest wines. Considered one of the leading vineyards – nationally, and in the Southeast Asian region -- the facility commands an unparalleled and comprehensive high-tech viniculture operation. …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………. A tractor pulling a roofless bus concoction shuttled us from the parking lot near the winery’s Great Hornbill Grill on our guided tour of the vineyards and winery. Our guide, German born Heribert Gaksch, General Manager of the vineyards Hospitality Division, explained about grape varieties for viniculture and the kinds of table grapes also grown in their acreage.Winemakers strongly believe that their wines are as good as the grapevines growing in their grounds, making the daily care of the vineyards and management of the harvest critical to the ultimate quality of a wine. Premium wines made from grapes grown in this exotic tropical latitude of 14.3 degrees north need plenty of tender loving care. PB Valley is planted with Shiraz and Chenin Blanc grapes from French rootstock while the Tempranillo grapes are from Spanish extraction. Italy and Germany have also provided parent grapevines. Once in the cool quarters of the production facility, we attended a wine-making presentation and explored the confines of stainless steel and oak vats while enjoying a wine-tasting break. An expert and extensive viniculture enterprise, the PB Valley winery boasts professional expertise and equipment to lead the wine-making production in Thailand and Southeast Asia. The winery’s first highlight was ushered in with their 1998 harvest bringing forth a vintage which proved that quality wine could be successfully produced locally. Today PB Valley has surpassed its own expectations. With Chenin Blanc and Shiraz as their strong, on-going classics, they have also released a red wine based on Spanish Tempranillo grapes reaped from the long, dry and cool period prior to the 2004 harvest which was perfect for grape maturity, providing an excellent blend of sugar and acid. The wine itself, a profound, reddish purple color had some evidence of vanilla and cedar in its aroma. It would make a perfect companion for red meats, lamb or pork. The winery’s restaurant serves traditional Thai, Continental and German fare. They also have a gourmet shop and top-notch resort facility drawing in local and international guests. The efforts of PB Valley are evident in the recent run of accolades from the media but are even more apparent in the premium wines they continue to make. For us, this was a well-spent weekend as once again we discovered one of our ‘host country’s’ amazing surprises. By Edie Wilcox@ August 2006